Paris' Haute Couture Fashion Week is back for the Autumn/Winter 2022-23 season, and kicking off proceedings this morning was none other than Schiaparelli – with a typically surreal, OTT and supremely glamorous collection by Daniel Roseberry. A brand beloved by everyone from Adele to Bella Hadid, and a red-carpet awards season favourite, here's everything you need to know about the Schiaparelli Haute Couture show:
The inspiration
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Entitled 'Born Again', Roseberry's show was an ode to 'creative innocence', optimism and the pure joy of fashion.
'All of us who work in fashion know that much of the rest of the world thinks that what we do is silly,' said Roseberry. 'It's a boring criticism, and we all argue otherwise, but if you think about it, fashion is silly at times. It's also provocative, upending, challenging and meaningful. It's breathtaking. It's beautiful.'
In the face of mounting pressures on fashion designers to give their work a 'serious' edge and use it to make a statement, for this collection Roseberry took a different route: 'The more difficult path is remaining an engaged member of society while also, in one's work, daring to return to a kind of creative innocence, to the state of wonder and awe we all felt when we saw our first transcendent show.'
'I think we sometimes get defensive when our critics accuse us of just wanting to make beautiful things,' he continues. 'But what's wrong with wanting to make beautiful things? It's not the only important part of life, of course, but it is a part of life. And to make truly beautiful things isn't actually that easy. But it is a privilege— and I'm grateful for it every day.'
The vibe
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Roseberry's powerful defence of fashion formed the perfect introduction to his show at the Musée Des Arts Décoratifs: an unapologetically extravagant spectacle from start to finish, that harked back to the ultra-glamorous origins of Haute Couture.
Models emerged from behind heavy velvet curtains, backlit and surrounded by smoke, before descending an elegant staircase onto the catwalk below, reminiscent of the early, intimate shows held at Parisian salons. Silhouettes were classic with a twist, each look full of unexpected elements, astounding levels of artistry and references to founder Elsa Schiaparelli – while classical, Disney-esque music served to up the drama.
The dresses
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With its combination of velvets, silks, feathers, corsetry, heavy gold adornment, intricate embellishments, and some of Schiaparelli's most iconic silhouettes, Roseberry's collection was a visual journey through the maison's archives – but with a notably modern bent. Think Lacroix-inspired drapery, hand-crafted gigantic flowers, ballooning ruffles, Cocteau-esque trompe l'oeils and a whole lot of skin on show, from slip dresses draped down to the belly-button, and below-the-breast necklines to fully-exposed torsos in a series of the chicest 'naked dresses' we've ever seen.
The surprise
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Roseberry's show notes may have spoken of the importance of 'fighting to stay close to that person who fell in love with fashion and its possibilities, of not succumbing to cynicism or world weariness' – but even he couldn't resist making a sartorial statement during a time when world events are never far from mind. The Schiaparelli show closed on a hopeful high: a model in nothing but a long velvet skirt and a hat carried a white dove, while the final all-red look revealed an intricate, open heart design. Peace and love in their most beautiful, breath-taking incarnations.
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Schiaparelli Kicks Off Couture Week With A Show Dedicated To The Pure Joy Of Fashion - ELLE
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