Crisp, clean and bright, this $11 chenin blanc is pure pleasure in a glass - The Washington Post

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The Washington Post

From left, MAN Family Wines Free-Run Steen Chenin Blanc 2020; Fitapreta, a Touriga vai Nua 2019; Reguengo de Melgaço Alvarinho Vinho Verde 2019; Archery Summit Vireton Pinot Gris 2019; Lyeth California Red Wine 2019.

This week’s greatest value is an inexpensive chenin blanc from South Africa ideal for patio sipping and casual meals. I’m also excited about two wines from Portugal, a country known for quality and value. These wines — an alvarinho and a touriga — are a bit of a splurge, but they showcase Portugal’s ability to punch above its price level in terms of quality. To round out this week’s selection, we have a fine pinot gris from Oregon and a red blend from California.

GREAT VALUE

MAN Family Wines Free-Run Steen Chenin Blanc 2020

(Excellent)

Coastal Region, South Africa, $11

MAN is an acronym derived from the initials of the wives of the three guys who started the label. So, yes, they decided to honor their wives by naming their wine “MAN.” At least they honored their wives by making the wine delicious. This is a white I could enjoy every day, made from chenin blanc grown on bush vines, using only free-run juice (without mechanically pressing the grapes). Crisp and clean, with orchard fruit flavors and bright acidity, it’s pure pleasure. Alcohol by volume: 13.5 percent.

Imported by Vineyard Brands. Distributed in the District and Maryland by Bacchus, in Virginia by Winebow: Available in the District at Ace Beverage, the Bottle House, Calvert Woodley, Chevy Chase Wine & Spirits, D’Vines, Irving Wine & Spirits, Paul’s of Chevy Chase, Rodman’s, Sherry’s Fine Wine & Spirits, Wagshal’s on New Mexico, Yes! Organic Market (Eighth Street SE). Available in Maryland at A&A Wine & Spirits in Gambrills; Apple Greene Wine & Spirits in Dunkirk; Bennett’s Thrifty Liquors in Chesapeake City; Bin 201 Wine Sellers, Eastport Liquors in Annapolis; Bin 604 Wine Sellers, the Canton Local, Grand Cru, NiHao, the Outpost American Tavern, Wells Discount Liquors, Wine Source in Baltimore; Fenwick Beer & Wine in Silver Spring; Grapes & Grains in Timonium; Highland Wine & Spirits in Highland; Iron Bridge Wine Co. in Columbia; Montgomery County Wine & Liquor Stores (Downtown Rockville, King Farm), Village Beer & Fine Wine in Rockville; Rodman’s (White Flint). Available in Virginia at Arrowine and Cheese in Arlington; Dominion Wine and Beer in Falls Church; Unwined (King Street) in Alexandria.

GREAT VALUE

Fitapreta, a Touriga vai Nua 2019

(Extraordinary/Sublime)

Alentejo, Portugal, $26

Maybe I’m jaded, but not many wines have me do a double-take on the first sip. This one did. I’m a fan of touriga, because I love port, and have long championed Portugal for the tremendous value it offers, especially from the Alentejo region. So I had high expectations for this wine. It exceeded those, with intense dark fruit flavors of berries, cherries and plums, with black tea, olive and hints of rose petals. The “vai Nua” in the name means “goes naked.” Winemaker António Maçanita did not age this wine in oak, hoping to preserve touriga’s floral character. He succeeded. If you pass on this because it’s expensive for an Alentejo wine, you are missing out. ABV: 13.5 percent.

Imported by Obrigado Vinhos Portugal, distributed by Salveto: Available in the District at Barcelona Wine Bar (14th Street NW, Wisconsin Avenue), Grand Cata (La Cosecha, Shaw), Little Pearl, Pearson’s, Rumi’s Kitchen, Schneider’s of Capitol Hill, Vitis Fine Wines & Spirits. Available in Virginia at Balducci’s in McLean; Unwined (King Street, Belleview) in Alexandria; the Wine Outlet in McLean.

Reguengo de Melgaço Alvarinho Vinho Verde 2019

(Extraordinary)

Portugal, $22

Vinho verde is popular for easy-sipping whites and rosés from northern Portugal, usually with low alcohol and a little spritz of carbonation to make them especially refreshing in hot weather. This wine is more serious and cries out for grilled seafood. It’s intense and energetic and deserves to stand with the albariños of Rías Baixas, across the border in Spain. ABV: 13 percent.

Imported and distributed by Kysela: Available in the District at MacArthur Beverages, Magruder’s, Rodman’s. Available in Maryland at Beer Wine & Co. in Bethesda; Downtown Crown Wine and Beer, Finewine.com in Gaithersburg; Maple Lawn Wine & Spirits in Fulton; McHenry Beverage Shoppe in McHenry; Snider’s Super Foods in Silver Spring; Sunny’s Fine Wines & Liquors in Eldersburg; Total Discount Liquors in Sykesville; Viniferous in Frederick; Wells Discount Liquors in Baltimore; Wine Bin in Ellicott City. Available in Virginia at Bon Vivant Wine & Brew in Smithfield; Great Bottles in Suffolk; Locke Store in Millwood; Puck’s Market in Henrico; Tidewater Cellars in Richmond; the Wine Outlet (Great Falls, Vienna); Woodstock Cafe in Woodstock.

Archery Summit Vireton Pinot Gris 2019

(Excellent/Extraordinary)

Willamette Valley, Ore., $20

Oregon seems to have given up on pinot gris, favoring its exceptional pinot noir, chardonnay and riesling. A few producers with older vines continue to make pinot gris of distinction, carving a stylistic path between the crisp, light pinot grigio of Italy and the richer gris of Alsace. Archery Summit’s Vireton is a fine example, rich and layered with flavors of Asian pear and Granny Smith apple. ABV: 13.9 percent.

Distributed by Winebow: Available in the District at Cairo Wine & Liquor, Calvert Woodley, Rodman’s, Schneider’s of Capitol Hill. Available in Maryland at Bradley Food & Beverage in Bethesda; Corner Market in Silver Spring; Finewine.com in Gaithersburg. Available in Virginia at Arrowine and Cheese in Arlington.

Lyeth California Red Wine 2019

(Excellent)

California, $13

Lyeth, now owned by the Boisset Collection of wineries, made a reputation in the 1990s for good-value Bordeaux-style blends from California, labeled as Meritage. This red blend is ripe and sweet, raisiny and even a bit portlike on the finish. It can carry you through from burgers to chocolate cookies for dessert. ABV: 13.5 percent.

Distributed by Bacchus: Available in the District at Paul’s of Chevy Chase, Rodman’s. Available in Maryland at Admiral Fell Inn, Wells Discount Liquors in Baltimore.

Availability information is based on distributor records. Wines might not be in stock at every listed store and might be sold at additional stores. Prices are approximate. Check Winesearcher.com to verify availability, or ask a favorite wine store to order through a distributor.